THE IMAGE OF THE CITY
THE INTERRUPTED URBANITY OF YALPANAM
BY Archt. Dilini Rathnayaka and Archt. Susil Lamahewa
This northernmost city of Sri Lanka is a place of profound significance, marked by its own blend of history, culture and resilience – the latter having developed more out of need and circumstance than anything else. Jaffna is often only seen through the turbulent and brutal layering of conflict that tore through a growing weave of cultural and socioeconomic progress.
As a background on its demographics, the majority of residents within the region are Sri Lankan Tamils with a substantial number of Christian and Muslim communities coexisting within its fabric.
However, Jaffna’s cultural heritage is deeply rooted in its Tamil identity, which is very much influenced by South India, and reflected in its festivals, cuisine and daily life. The city is known for its landmark Hindu temples such as the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil and Keerimalai Naguleswaram temple, serving as important religious and cultural landmarks to this date. The architecture of these temples and support buildings – with their intricate carvings, unique mouldings and vibrant colours – showcase the artistic and spiritual traditions of the Tamil and Hindu cultures that are prevalent.
Historically, Jaffna was a key centre for Tamil culture and power in the island, and was ruled by the Chola dynasty and later, the Tamil kings of the Jaffna kingdom from the 13th to the 17th century. Jaffna’s suburb Nallur was the capital of the mediaeval Tamil Jaffna kingdom for many centuries. In the 16th century, the arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch and then British colonials influenced Jaffna’s administrative structure, trade and urban layout. The colonial period was a time of destruction and transformation, which laid the groundwork for the Jaffna we see today. It left a significant cultural imprint on the city including the architecture, language, landscape and religious practices. As per the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ narrative, shortly after independence, the Jaffna District established the Atchchuveli Industrial Estate as a trade zone. With a rail link, products made there were easily transported across the country.
In recent history, Jaffna was devastatingly impacted by the Sri Lankan civil war, which lasted nearly 30 years. The conflict led to widespread destruction and displacement – not simply in physical form but in halting growing progression in education, culture, generational skills and knowledge capital. The scars of war are evident in the city’s landscape with damaged buildings and also a sense of loss in those who carry the trauma of its experience, sometimes spanning generations.
Jaffna was said to be Sri Lanka’s second most popular city after Colombo prior to the civil war. After the rail track was removed, railway buildings were bombed and the main road was disconnected; the Jaffna Peninsula was cut off from the majority of the country. Industries and state property were destroyed, leaving the north as one of the poorest regions in the country due to a lack of access for all supplies via calculated decisions.
Jaffna’s urban resurgence: cultural, economic and social revitalisation
The postwar period has seen extensive reconstruction efforts, both physical and social – not without immense challenges and pushback from each subsequent ruling body. The civil war caused extensive damage to the city’s infrastructure, displacing and shifting its residents and halting economic progress, while dispossessing residents of their own properties, homes and public spaces. The war’s aftermath saw Jaffna facing challenges in rebuilding homes, schools and businesses, creating a strong need for reconstruction and economic recovery, as well as viable and sincere national support.
After decades of conflict, families and remaining members have begun attempts to return and repossess their lost homes and lands, facing unending bureaucratic obstacles in proving their ownership with the lack and destruction of paperwork. There is tiredness and exhaustion in this different kind of battle; yet there is a drive to start from almost zero.
The rebuilding of infrastructure – including schools, hospitals, roads, and other public facilities such as marine developments and irrigation for farming – has been pivotal in returning some semblance of normalcy. The renovation and expansion of roads – especially the A9, which is one of the main arteries in the country, the Sangupiddy Bridge, the restoration of the Yal Devi train service and so on – have been critical in finally improving connectivity between Jaffna and the rest of the regions.
This development of new roads and the upgrading of existing ones have facilitated easier movement of people and goods, boosting economic activity and social association. A key focus of the restructuring programme was rebuilding the Achchuveli Industrial Complex in Jaffna under the Uthuru Wasanthaya programme. Targeted investment sectors for the estate include textiles, plastic and leather goods, oil and fibre products, food processing and agro-based industries.
New housing projects have been initiated to provide homes for those displaced during the conflict, addressing the overall stability and wellbeing of the community – through foreign organisations and NGOs as well.
After several years of postwar recovery, it can be said that the city is regrowing. Jaffna is undergoing a remarkable urban revival, reemerging as a vibrant hub of growth in the northern peninsula. This change is driven by the city’s resilience, and efforts of its own people, administration and organisations.
The urban resurgence of Jaffna is not limited to physical and economic aspects; it also encompasses a cultural and social renaissance. Today, festivals, traditional arts and religious practices are with much enthusiasm and community engagement, with a growing contemporary academic and artistic subculture.
The city’s strategic location, rich cultural heritage, historical and archaeological sites, and natural beauty have made it an attractive destination for tourism, drawing both domestic and international tourists, creating jobs, stimulating local businesses and fostering cultural exchange. Restoration of the Jaffna International Airport plays a vital role in the city’s economic and social revitalisation. Educational institutions such as the University of Jaffna and once destroyed Jaffna Public Library are playing a critical role in the advancement of education, providing research opportunities, which is vital for the city’s long-term development.
The preservation of historical sites such as the Jaffna Fort, Nallur kovil, sacred Keerimalai water well and Nilavarai underground well shows Jaffna’s continuing commitment to honouring its past and traditions. Not only these but the taste of Rio ice cream is another unforgettable experience Jaffna has to offer. Known for its rich flavours and unique combinations, Rio ice cream has become a beloved treat for both locals and visitors.
The bicycle culture of Jaffna is still prevalent but competes with the new, younger generation of scooters and motorcars. But still, Austin A40s and Cambridge cars manufactured in the 1930s and ’50s can be seen on Jaffna streets. A journalist once claimed to have explained Jaffna’s number of mint condition vintage cars at the Austin car museum, all the way in Texas (US).
However, bringing colour or traffic light signals to a city with very little motor traffic may have ruined the unique culture of road discipline it boasted for decades. Nevertheless, the city still displays a level of consideration and regiment in its public behaviour, with regulated traffic and safe passage for pedestrians and cyclists.
Challenges and opportunities
With urbanisation and modernisation, preservation of the city’s unique cultural identity is crucial. Jaffna’s image as a city undergoing urban resurgence requires balancing traditional values with modern urban planning. As Jaffna undergoes modernisation, there is an ongoing effort to preserve its unique identity. The city’s traditional practices, languages and cultural festivals are being maintained, alongside the adoption of new technologies and infrastructure.
However, at the beginning of the postwar infrastructure development, almost all Dutch period buildings situated on either side of the A9 highway were demolished due to road widening projects. These actions were taken without adequate investigation to showcase rapid development to the world. As a result of these hasty and ill-considered measures, the built heritage of a historically significant city was lost.
Today, the city blends traditional Tamil architectural styles with the remaining colonial era buildings, giving it a unique aesthetic. The Jaffna Fort, originally built by the Portuguese and later expanded by the Dutch, is the most significant symbol of the city’s colonial history. Surrounded by a moat with one access point, it remains a major landmark despite suffering damage during the civil war.
Newer developments like city hotels and shops have added an uncontrolled modern touch while attempting to preserve cultural landmarks. The balance between tradition and modernity is crucial in ensuring that the essence of Jaffna’s heritage is not lost amidst rapid changes. This is where the play of true professionalism is required. It must be noted that its local academics and students make effort and take sincere interest in organising archival projects to professionally document the last vestiges of historical architecture, most often at personal time and expenditure – a pursuit worth being supported by the architectural institutions outside it.
While Jaffna is on a path of development, there are still challenges that impact the city’s image. The disparity between urban development in the city and the surrounding rural areas influences the image of its growth. Some parts of the Jaffna Peninsula – like Valvettithurai, Point Pedro, Karaveddy and Thondamannar – still remain underdeveloped and certain infrastructure facilities for historical sites urgently need improvement. There are still land disputes, resettlement concerns and post-traumatic stress among the population following the war. There is a need for balanced growth, preventing unequal development between rural and urban areas while addressing environmental concerns.
In a discussion with the Observer Research Foundation in 2022, P. S. M. Charles – the former governor of the Northern Province – emphasised that Jaffna’s connectivity must improve at the local, regional and international levels. She also mentioned that engaging with the local community before starting new projects can reduce any opposition – a vital move.
Reviving industries such as the chemical factory in Paranthan, the cement factory in Kankesanthurai (KKS), the saltern at Elephant Pass and the tile factory in Oddusuddan would create jobs and support the region’s economy. Additionally, Jaffna’s proximity to the Indian coast offers trade opportunities if accessibility and transport are prioritised. Therefore, the relevant officials should focus on addressing these remaining opportunities to ensure that Jaffna can progress in full force with a strong socioeconomic foundation.
In conclusion, as Jaffna continues to evolve, it remains a place where the past and present coexist, and tradition and innovation intersect. Its story is one of resilience and rebirth, setting a powerful example for how communities can rebuild and thrive in the face of adversity. The image of Jaffna today is a city in transformation, honouring its rich heritage while embracing the future with optimism and resilience. The scars of its past are evident but they are accompanied by a spirit of renewal and growth. Jaffna’s journey reflects Sri Lanka itself: a country with a complex past but a hopeful outlook.
REFERENCES
ORF Online, 2023. Reviving the Jaffna Peninsula as a Regional Economic Hub. [online] Available at: https://www.orfonline.org/research/reviving-the-jaffna-peninsula-as-a-regional-economic-hub [Accessed 5 September 2024].
Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 2014. Industrial Resurgence in Jaffna. [online] Available at: https://mfa.gov.lk/industrial-resurgence-in-jaffna [Accessed 5 September 2024].
Navaratne, C. M., 2020. Spaces of Conflict: Emerging Built Environment in Post-war Era, Urban Development in the City of Jaffna, Sri Lanka. ResearchGate. [online] Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/339133392_Spaces_of_Conflict_Emerging_Built_Environment_in_Post-war_Era_Urban_Development_in_the_City_of_Jaffna_Sri_Lanka [Accessed 6 September 2024].
PHOTOGRAPHY
Archt. Shahdia Jamaldeen